February 20th, 2010
11am-8pm
Plus FREE King Cake all day!
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We've got a pretty selection of Italian wines to show you this weekend but before we get to that, can we be honest? You've probably noticed that we don't talk much about Robert Parker in Winestore. It's nothing against Robert Parker; he's brilliant, has a remarkable memory, and an astonishingly comprehensive understanding of the world of wine. But (and you knew the word "but" was about to surface) I disagree with him about a lot of wines. He likes wines that are so big they burst at the seams: I think balance is far more charming than weight.
The disagreement extends to the meaning of the descriptors I just utilized: I'm sure my "so big" seems more like "balance" to Parker, and perhaps my "balance" is less charming to him than boring. Here's the most important thing: nobody's right and nobody's wrong in this matter. We each have different sensory experiences because we each have slightly differing abilities to receive the hundreds of thousands of flavors and aromas that the human body can detect. And our past experiences feed into this as well: if you grew up eating ramen noodles with ginger and coconut milk, well, you get the idea…
So we don't like points and numbers, because points and numbers suggest that everyone's experience will be the same and can be easily pinpointed on a scale 50-100. Ridiculous.
However, I still read Parker and often seek out wines that he thinks are great. There are lots of people who like the same wines he likes, and if he finds a bargain, it's probably going to please even more people. For instance, Parker likes the 2007 Bastianich Batali La Mozza Morellino di Scansano, a Sangiovese with a bit of Syrah and Colorino in it. The Bastianich wines are always well-made, and Morellino has long been the go-to region for Sangiovese lovers eager for crazy value.
Then there's the 2005 Il Molina di Grace Chianti Classico. It got five stars from Decanter Magazine. While most people haven't read Decanter, that's to their detriment. Decanter has been the world's best wine magazine for ages and if they say something gets five stars, everybody should pay attention. Even those who don't read Decanter.
Among wine writers, Paolo Scavino is considered to be one of the great traditionalists; the reviews have always been laudatory. Scavino's Rosso 2007, a blend of Barbera, Nebbiolo and Cabernet Sauvignon, is one of the critics' favorites, year after year, and we happen to agree with them.
But if you want divide the critics, then mention producers such as Movia. 2004 Movia Veliko Bianco brings together the grapes Ribolla Gialla, Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc for a three to three and a half year sojourn in French oak, and much of that time, the wine is on its lees. That's a bit crazy and so is the wine. Trust me.
On the other hand, nobody has to tell you to like 2008 Quattro Mani Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. We've been following that label for years and it's fun, juicy, rich and balanced. Okay, somebody else might call that boring, but to me, it's balanced.
Oh, yes, one last wine: Donna Laura Chianti Classico Bramosia 2006, a pretty Sangiovese with a jot of Merlot. Bramosia means "desire" in Italian - this could be a perfect "date night" wine.
We'll also have some other amazing treats - just wait until you try the 2004 Poggio Scalette Il Carbonaione.
Doug Frost MS MW
Master Sommelier & Master of Wine
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