Saturday March 31st, 2012
11am -8pm
Featuring:
2009 Halos de Jupiter Cotes du Rhone
2010 Puech Haut "Prestige"
2009 Philippe Cambie "Calendal"
2009 Capcanes "Mas Donis"
2008 Capcanes "Costers del Gravet"
2010 Domaine La Garrigue "Cuvee Romaine"
2004 Bodegas Mas Alta "Artigas"
2009 Clos St. Jean "Vieilles Vignes"
There are lots of smart people working in the wine industry who operate far under the radar. One such is Rick Jones, a long time California wine consultant (though his reach has spread to many other countries at times) but you haven’t heard of him. That’s okay. This column isn’t even about Rick; it’s just an example of how winemakers and winegrowers are constantly seeking out new ideas and skilled practitioners to improve their products, grapes or wine. Some of the most important of these consultants rarely receive the acclaim they are due, though most of this ilk I have met insist that they are simply consultants and that they deserve nothing in the way of notoriety. Simply put, they have ideas and experiences that may help others to make better wines; in this, they often see themselves as supporting players. But winemaking is an inherently collaborative process. While no one person deserves the entire credit (or blame) for any wine, certain individuals’ ideas have sometimes influenced an entire generation (say, Emile Peynaud or Robert Parker) or entire region – that would be Philippe Cambie in the southern Rhone.
Cambie hails from outside the region (Herault in the old Midi; close by but a world away in French wine industry terms) but he has had increasing impact upon the Grenache based wines of the Rhone Valley since his arrival in the area in 1998. And while the two influential folks mentioned above have had a much wider reach in their influence, there has been a common complaint applied by some to the impact of their ideas: that wines too much taste the same these days because of the ideas these two gentlemen promulgated.
I don’t think anyone would accuse Cambie of this sinister crime, if it is indeed a crime. The best wines of the southern Rhone seem more and more different under his influence. At the least it could be stated that the styles of the many wines he has assisted have remained distinctive even as they have improved over the last decade or so. That’s the sort of statement that any winemaker or consultant would, I think, feel great pride in hearing applied to their legacy.
Cambie’s work continues on: amongst the many estates he has assisted or assists are estates we have helped to promote here at winestore: in Spain, Mas Alta in Priorat and the venerable Celler Capcanes in Montsant; in France, Domaine Puech Haut, Clos Saint Jean, Feraud Brunel, le Vieux Donjon, Domaine la Garrigue, Domaine Boisson, Bosquet des Papes, Grand Tinel, Senechaux, Mont Olivet, and finally Tardieu Laurent. One of Tardieu Laurent’s wines went down for me very nicely tonight. It was ripe and delicious but unlike some in the region, it was never overripe and for that I am grateful to anyone responsible, including Monsieur Cambie.
Enjoy these wonderful wines and we'll see you Saturday!
Cheers,
Doug Frost, MS MW
Master Sommelier & Master of Wine
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